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mfw f/w 2010 pt. 6

Posted on March 6, 2010 at 3:25 PM

I'm bored as shit and I'm craving new music so I'm just looking up random shit on lala.com, one of my new favorite music sites, its like a mecca and has just about everything. Anyways, lets get this started.

Effectively putting his boyish charm to rest, Phillip Lim took his men on a wild ride through the city for the upcoming season. With hair slicked back and strapped boots in toll, Lim’s vision of the city involved bulky coats cinched at the waist and paired with semi-slim silhouettes. Using leather once more to lend his range an edge, Lim looked to monochromatic numbers to navigate the city. However, it was the collection’s tonal checks that made the mostsignificant impact. Based in browns, but graphically strong, Lim’s checks immediately registered as a key symbol of the season. Altogether conservative, but slightly exaggerated proportion-wise, Phillip Lim’s fall outing steers the line in a more market-friendly direction that should boast well for the designer.

 


Unable to focus this season’s inspirations, Paul Smith decided on the next best course of action–return to his roots. Thinking back to his days of creating clothes for musicians, Smith decided on avaried range with pieces for rock-minded men of all ages. From nostalgic knickers, a wide spectrum of suiting and an asymmetrical cape to plaid punk numbers, Smith turned out yet another exciting show of balanced color and proportion.


American designer Tim Hamilton plays a gloomy hand as his abstract designs compete with a black and gray fall season. Fortunately, the designer keeps things interesting with rounded silhouettes, subtle prints and luxe sequins. Possessing both an effortless edginess and at times a gentle sensibility, the Hamilton man weaves in and out of looks that demonstrate a masculine certainty alongside a gritty penchant for fashion as an art.


Ushering in a sea of buffalo checks, stripes, denim washes, speckles, patches and plaid, Miharayasuhiro’s latest collection gave the appearance that its models had raided a goodwill store with an interesting outcome by chance. Embracing an eclectic nature, the range finds itself with plenty of lively shirting options as well as chunky knits that double as outerwear. Meanwhile, proportions are all over the board, with the majority of pieces enjoying an oversize comfort. Rounding out the collection is the choice to take on a conservative pair of slim-fitted trousers or thecollection’s more personable approach to patched denim. Overall, the range maintains a casualness that is in sync with the times, offering a certain charm and a piece for everyone.


Sticking to true form, nothing is too out of the ordinary for Commedes Garçons SHIRT this season. Blending vivid plaid prints as always, the label pairs most of its bold shirting with relaxed solid trousers for a somewhat grounded look.

 


The mood was upbeat at today’s Kenzo show, where designer Antonio Marras looked to French filmmaker Jacques Tati for inspiration. Taking a cue from an older generation, Marras based fall’s collection around tweed, houndstooth, muted plaid and abstract prints. Accenting a generally gray color palette with the occasional sightings of red, brown and orange, cropped jackets and ankle baring trousers were made complete with spacious outerwear. Altogether, crafting a charming nostalgic affair, Marras delivered an inspiring collection that ended with a bang as models took to Place desVictoires for a showstoping finale.


The mention of Rick Owens may evoke images of the edgy rebel clad in head-to-toe black, but without apparent effort, the designer creates a chic vision for fall. Minimal and unaffected under constraint, Owens turns to clay tones fora wide spectrum of soft yet masculine looks. While funnel collars come in all shapes and sizes, Owens’ earthy layering looks to texture and winged shapes for purpose. Building off of a fall wardrobe that is not afraid to bare arms, the collection takes special aim at tanks and sleeveless knits, before rounding off the season with boots dressed in a daring reptile print.


Standing out in stark black and white, the latest collection from Blaak Homme designers Sachiko Okada and Aaron Sharif turns to the church for inspiration. While the oversize rosary and crown of thorns make for controversial pieces of discussion, robe-inspired proportions take minimal design in a striking direction. Avoiding any great use of volume, a certain lightness is achieved where Okada and Sharif fashion a dynamic wardrobe that can be dressed up or down and applied to the year’s seasons at large.

 


Borrowing this season’s theme from the Rolling Stones song Paint It Black, designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren bring their signature menswear quirks to the runway for the first time. Unveiling a refinedcollection based in a dark color palette, points of interest are sporadic as the Viktor & Rolf man is doused in paint. Always alert of this danger, the collection provides for a juxtaposing of the formal and casual, ranging from quilting and trousers with elasticated cuffs to the full on dinner jacket. Staging a small show for the first time around, Viktor & Rolf played it cautious, but with added confidence and a penchant for the absurd, the sky is the limit with the future boding well.


Taking shape on the runway this season, Juun J showcases a more structured perspective. Blending a keen eye for details with a progressive thirst, vivid colors meet a static sea of black and gray for a dynamic presentation. Balancing wide and narrow proportions, special attention is shared between billowing sleeves and trousers, while dramatic hoods further the collection’s momentum. Altogether, Juun J transports his man to a world where he has to show a hard exterior, but beneath rests soft layers of care and thoughtfulness. From the subtle asymmetrical cut and leather insert to added length and volume, Juun J successfully bridges the gap between the accessible and the inventive.

 


Louis Vuitton plays it safe this season with a relaxed attempt at formal suiting. Adding leather inserts to jackets and elasticated cuffs to trousers, the Louis Vuitton man moves to downplay his prestige. Down outerwear may help his case, but the collection overall comes across as static with the exception of an arresting pair of duo-tone colored boots.

 


Violence takes center stage on the runway once more this season with Jean Paul Gaultier looking to boxing for inspiration. Avoiding a stale blackout, Gaultier infuses his range with a brilliant mix of silhouettes and standoutsmodeled after the boxer’s uniform. With enough versatility to be taken in the direction of either casual or formal wear, robe-like outerwear,voluminous waistlines, tapered legs and multi-functional leather give shape to a plethora of ready-to-layer basics and suiting separates.


Pringle of Scotland returns to the runway with designer Claire Waight Keller aiming to balance the softness of knits with the projection of masculinity. Masked in black, this goal is put to the ultimate test with the inclusion of skirts, but Keller comes out on top, offering structured suiting and outerwear to give her man a dynamic armor.


Okay, Im done for this post, thanks for reading...who ever IS reading this

Categories: Fashion

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